CJ Daley eNews

May 2004

 

 

In this issue.....


The Latest News

Our retail location is at 141 Steinwehr Avenue in Gettysburg. May Store hours will be: Fri. 10 - 5; Sat. 10 - 9; Sun & Mon 10 - 5 The phone number at the store is 717-334-4429. Hours will be extended further in June.
 

Our sutler schedule for the month is as follows:

140th Spotsylvania, May 7-9
This looks as it it'll be big event in the east here so I'll be there set up on Sutler Row that whole weekend. The weather looks promising so please look for my tent (the only Hospital Tent on the 'Row') For more information click here:
http://www.spotsylvania140th.com/

New Market Preservation March: Friday May 14th only
This is NOT the reenactment, but the preservation March. I'll be set up there from about 2pm until Midnight on Friday near the registration. If you are going to the event, or going to the reenactment, please stop by. For more information, please click here: http://newmarketatwar.com/


Product Development
 


A few items have been in the works for a while and I've been reluctant to mention their development as I wanted to make sure they would come to fruition. Below is a short list of items we'll be adding to our inventory this Spring/Summer:

  • Silk Hat Cords in Blue, Red and Black

  • 5th NY Zouave uniforms including jackets, shirts, sashes, pantaloons, fezes and chevrons.

  • Selden/British Issue Shirts 


May Production Runs

  • CS Frock Coats

  • Commercial Sack Coats

  • Fatigue Blouses

  • English Import Overcoats

  • Federal Trowsers

  • CS Kepis

  • Tait Jackets

  • CS Trowsers in 8 Fabrics

  • Military Vests in 5 fabrics

  • Shelter Tents

Past Issues?

If you are a new subscriber and wish to read articles from past issues of CJ Daley eNews, please use the drop down menu to choose an issue and click the "view" button to explore our archives.
 

  Uniform Study:
Invalid Corps Jackets from 1863-1866
please click on any image to enlarge

The article below is an excerpt from a larger article on Invalid Corps Jackets published on my website. There was some discussion recently on chat forums about these coats. To view the entire article, please click here: http://www.cjdaley.com/vrc.htm  

In 1999, I had the opportunity to inspect and document a Invalid Corps jacket on display at Gettysburg National Military Park in Gettysburg, PA. Since then I have examined and photographed 4 other Invalid Corps Jackets and I am currently working on a database to catalog extant Invalid Corps Jackets. This Invalid Corps jacket is not identified to a soldier, but was purchased by Gettysburg National Military Park from the New York Historical Society.

Jacket is complete. This garment is an excellent example of a Type II Invalid Corps Jacket. All body pieces, buttons and trim are intact. Jacket shows no tears in body or sleeve lining. Jacket is hand sewn throughout. Button holes show no wear. It has a six-piece body and a two-piece sleeve. The length of the jacket from the base of collar to the bottom is 21". The side seam from the arm hole to the bottom is 13 1/2" and the length down the back along the center back seam is 23 1/8"


The jacket is trimmed throughout with 1/2" worsted wool blue lace. It is trimmed around perimeter of collar, around jacket perimeter from base of collar on buttonhole side around to bottom button on button side. On cuff in a chevron pattern. The collar exhibits a 4" double row of lace on the collar to simulate a false buttonhole.

The jacket has a four-piece collar. The height of the collar is 2 1/8" in the front and 2 1/4" in the center. There is a single black metal hook-n-eye set 1/2" up from the base of the collar. The side vent is 3 1/8" deep and 1/2" wide at the bottom.

The width of the vent facing is 1 1/2" wide. The sleeve lining consists of two different fabrics. Both are green polished cotton with a white pattern printed on them. The first is in a "basket weave" pattern the second is a "grid" pattern. The sleeves linings however are not matched. The upper sleeve lining of the left sleeve matches the under sleeve lining of the right sleeve and visa versa.

(Note: Another jacket formerly owned by Dean Nelson had sleeve linings made from fabric identical to the basket weave pattern in this garment. On this example from the Schuylkill Arsenal, both the upper and under sleeve lining are made form the same fabric.)

The left sleeve is marked "S.A. 2" in dark red ink. The body lining is a plaid domet flannel material. The lining of the body is 5 pieces, there is no center back seam as seen in the body.

The functional shoulder straps are 5 1/2" long in the front, 6 1/4" in the middle and 5 1/4" in the rear. They are trimmed with 1/2" lace and have a 3/4" buttonhole. The facing piece is also raw edged. It is topstitched 6-7 stitches per inch 1/4" along the shoulder seam.

The pocket bag material is also cut similar to the sleeves. The upper fabric is different than the under fabric. The opening of the pocket is 5 1/4" wide. All facing pieces are overcast raw edged to the body. The only top-stitching on the body is on the button side of the jacket. This stitching is 1/2" from the edge and is 6-7 stitches per inch.

The jacket has a 12 button front. The top buttonhole is placed 1" down and 3/4" over and the bottom button hole is placed 3 1/8" up and 3/4" over. The buttonhole spacing is between 1 1/2" and 1 3/4" apart. All buttons on the jacket have a Scovill back mark.

The cuff lace measurements are as follows: Front of sleeve is 1 1/3" up from the bottom, the middle of the lace rises to 4 1/2" and the lace falls to 1 5/8" at the rear of the cuff. The sleeve has a separate facing piece that is 1" deep and is raw edged.


The length of the sleeve is 25", the width at the cuff is 5 7/8" and the width at the elbow is 8"

The author would like to thank the staff at Gettysburg
National Military Park for permission to use these
photographs in this article.

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What's on Sale this Month?
Confederate Single Breasted Frock Coats
please click on any image to enlarge

 

CS Single Breasted Frock Coat

Sale Price $300.00*
Regularly $350.00

CS Single Breasted Frock Coat
 

UNCLE! I GIVE! You've twisted my arm long enough and I've given in to demand, I WILL make you a CS Frock Coat and I will make it affordable!

This month we'll be starting on a production run of single breasted frock coats based a housed in the South Carolina Relic Room. The coat is id'd to Cpl. Robert A. Bomar of Hampton's Legion. The coat was most likely originally made in Charleston, SC at Porter Industrial School for a member of the Washington Light Infantry. Bomar served at 1st Manassas; was wounded and likely received the coat in the hospital before mustering out.

The coat has a 6 piece body, 2 piece sleeve and a 3 piece lining. It has wide facing pieces and is lined in the sleeves and body in a plain white cotton material. It has two tail pockets and an unlined skirt. The material we'll be using to reproduce the coat was custom woven for us and is a light weight and finely woven jean cloth. The jacket is primarily machine sewn, but does have ton's of hand detailing (including of course the buttonholes).

The coat was originally trimmed on the collar with 1" wide wool tape, but we will be leaving this feature out on the production run, if you would like to add the tape, we'll happily provide you with instructions on how to apply the trim by hand as an 'after market' alteration.

The price of the coat will normally be $350.00 postage paid, but for the month of May 2004, the introductory price will be an even $300.00. We'll also include a deal so you can get matching trowsers a reduced price as well!

10% of the sale price of this coat will be donated
directly to the South Carolina Relic Room!


CS Frock/Trowser Combo

Sale Price $440.00*
Regularly $510.00

Add CS issue trowsers to the above for a
reduced price and save $70.00! 

 

*Delivery on CS frock coats will take 4-6 weeks depending on availability and size.
To order a coat, please proceed through our inline check out system.
Credit cards will NOT be charged until the coat is shipped.
We are currently only making these coats up to a 50" Chest, but may expand our size offerings as demand warrants.

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