Excerpts from the US Quartermaster manual

Chapter Tenth:
Materials Required to Make Clothing

Uniform Coat: Medium Size
1 3/4 yards of 6-4 dark blue cloth or 3 1/2 yards of 3/4 cloth, 1 inch of sky blue facing cloth, 5/8 yard of black alpaca 30 inches wide, 7/8 yard of unbleached muslin or cambrie, 3/4 yard of 24 inch canvas, 1/8 yard of buckram, 1 sheet of black cotton wadding, 3/8 yard of muslin, 2 1/4 skeins of black silk, or same quantity of black linen thread No 40, 1 yard of 12 strands silk twist or same quantity or black linen thread No 40, 5 skeins of black linen thread No 40, 1/2 skein of W.B. Thread no , 11 coat buttons, 4 vest buttons, 1 black hook and eye. For musicians add 5 yards 3/8 worsted lace, and 2 skeins of thread.
 
Footman's Trowsers
2 yards 15 inches of 2/4 sky blue kersey; 1/2 yard of 7/8 unbleached drilling; 5 suspender buttons, 5 shirt or fly buttons; 1 1/2 inches of black or dark 4-4 muslin; 6 skeins dark blue linen thread, No 30. For Ordnance, dark blue kersey.
 
Mounted men's trowsers, reinforced on seat and legs
3 yards 8 inches of 3/4 sky blue kersey; 1/2 yard of 7/8 drilling; 8 suspender buttons; 13 shirt or fly buttons; 8 skiens of dark blue linen thread; No 30; 1 1/2 inches black or dark muslin
 
Jacket for light artillery or cavalry
1 1/4 yards of 6-4 dark blue cloth; 1 yard of 7/8 lining; 1 yard of 4-4 unbleached muslin; 3/4 of a yard of 24 inch canvas; 1 sheet of black cotton wadding; I inch of brown holland; 20 vest buttons; 1 hook and eye, black; 6 1/4 yards of 3/8 worsted lace; 7 skeins of dark blue linen thread, No. 40. For musicians, add 5 yards of lace, and 2 skeins of thread.
 
Jacket for Veteran Reserve Corps
1 1/4 yards of 6-4 sky blue kersey; 1 yard of 7/8 white or grey flannel or linsey lining; 1 1/8 yards of 4-4 unbleached muslin; I inch of 4-4 brown holland; 6 yards of I/2 inch dark blue worsted lace; 16 vest buttons; 7 skeins of dark blue linen thread, No. 35; 1 black hook and eye. For musicians, add 5 yards of lace and 2 skeins of thread
 
Great Coats for footmen
3 yards 9 inches of 6-4 sky blue kersey;  1 yard 12 inches of 3/4 heavy lining; 1 yard 9 inches of 7/8 unbleached drilling; 2 inches of 4-4 brown holland; 6 coat buttons, 6 vest buttons; 2 black hooks and eyes;  10 skeins of dark blue linen thread. No 30
 
Great Coats for mounted men
4 yards 2 inches of 6-4 sky blue kersey;  1 yard 12 inches of 3/4 heavy lining; 1 yard 9 inches of 7/8 unbleached drilling; 2 inches of 4-4 brown holland; 13 coat buttons, 12 vest buttons; 2 black hooks and eyes;  13 skeins of dark blue linen thread. No 30
 
Overalls
2 7/8 yards of 8 ounce cotton or pure linen duck, 28 1/2 wide; 4 white metal suspender buttons, 5 1/2 skeins of No 30 W.B. linen thread; seems to be all felled.
 
Stable Frocks
3 1/2 yards of 7/8 cotton of pure linen drilling, weighing 6 ounces to the yard, 4 metal suspender buttons, 5 1/2 skeins of No. 30 W.B. linen thread, all seams to be felled
 
Drawers
2 1/8 yards of 3/2 canton flannel, weighting 5 1/2 ounces to the yard; 2 white metal suspender buttons; 2 1/2 skeins of No 35 W.B. linen thread; 1 yard of 1/2 wide tape. The 4 1/2 inch slit at the bottom of each leg, together with the bottom of each leg, to have their edges hemmed; each end of the slit for each leg to have 1/4 of a yard of 1/2 white tape strongly sewn on.
 
Shirts
2 7/8 yards of 7/8 cotton and wool domet flannel, 3 shirt buttons of white metal, and 3 1/2 skeins of W.B. linen thread, No 35, seams to be all "felled"
 
Blouses, unlined
3 yards 4 inches of 3/4 blue flannel; 4 brass coat buttons; 6 1/4 skeins of dark blue linen thread. No 35; 3-36 of a yard of 3/4 drilling; and 1-36 of a yard of brown linen. Add for lined blouses, 1 1/4 yards of 3/4 linsey or grey flannel, and 7/8 of a yard of 4-4 unbleached muslin

 

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